We spent the last two nights in Puno, Peru on the Lake of the Great-Colored Puma, Lake Titicaca. Titi meaning Puma, Caca meaning great color.
The town of Puno, population 180,000, might not seem like much with all of its concrete houses and buildings rolling along the shore, but once afloat the highest navigable lake in the world, one can find fascinating islands and people.
Yesterday we hopped from boat to boat - bearing in mind that one misplaced step or slip would land us in the 8 degree Celsius water below - until we reached our double-decker boat. Twenty-five minutes later we docked on one of the floating Uros Islands. These islands and all of their structures are made completely or reeds. The reeds, which must be re-layered every 15 days, sit on top of a cork-like mud brick to keep them afloat, and are anchored to the bottom 18 meters below with a nylon rope and bone stake.
Four generations of women in neon colored boleros and skirts greeted us as we stepped foot on the island. We observed that the oldest, the great grandmother, still had black hair and perfect teeth. Their diet of fish and reeds help keep this youthful look. We also experienced peeling the reed like a banana, and chewed and ate the white, moist and stringy interior. Not too bad if that is what it takes to keep looking so young! After observing their art and weaving and exploring their reed community, we boarded the Mercedes Benz, an elaborate boat made entirely of reeds. We hopped on the top of the Benz and were taken 20 minutes away to the main Uros Island where we fed live fish to fish (slightly weird) and spent most of our time snapping photos of the dog and cat (surprise surprise) rolling around on the reed ground.
Next stop Taquile Island - a two and a half hour boat ride. Nap time! At least for a little while. Taquile Island, an actual island, is home to about 2,000 who spend the entirety of their traditional lives on Taquile. When observing its inhabitants you can immediately tell who is single or married by their dress.
A married man wears an all red cap and a hidden belt made of his wife's hair. A single man sports a red and white cap - to the side if he's not interested in anyone or to the back if he's courting a girl. The women wear long black veils with different sized colored "pom-poms." Large colorful pom-poms indicate single, and small dark pom-poms married. Before they marry they must date for at least three years as divorces are not allowed on the Island. Three months before the wedding the bride-to-be cuts her long dark hair to weave a thick belt for her husband, so she will always be close to him. Incidentally, this belt also provides back support while he does laborious jobs.
No police force exists on Taquile, nor is necessary for the peaceful community. A doctor resides there Monday through Friday (you are not allowed to get sick on the weekends), as does a teacher who teaches primary and secondary school. To get a more advanced education one must go to Puno. The majority of the island practices a form of "Mother Nature Catholicism" though a Seventh Day Adventist church can also be found on Taquile. When voting for mayor and other high positions votes are showed and counted by raising hands. No secrets on this island.
One last fun-fact: the US named the weavers of Taquile Island the best in South America. Girls and boys as young as 5 years old line the hiking trails with woven bracelets and goods to sell. Though very good weavers, they are very pushy as well. The Taquile people spend six months of the year making woven handicrafts, while the other six months are dedicated to planting and harvesting the heavily terraced island.
Next stop: La Paz, Bolivia
Beautiful day on Lake Titicaca:
Rollin in the Benz
No comments:
Post a Comment